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A Glossary of Formalwear Terms:

Lapels          Coat Styles          Shirt Styles         Tuxedo Accessories

Tuxedos have a variety of collar styles to choose from.

Here is a quick overview of the basic lapels:

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Notch Collar:

 

A collar that appears to have a cut taken out at the shoulders

 

Very classic

Gives a more athletic look

Peak Collar:

An upward-pointing collar

 

Very traditional

 

Gives an illusion of width

Shawl Collar:

 

A one-piece collar that wraps around the lapel

 

Very contemporary

 

Gives an illusion of height

There are also various differences in coat styles. Here is an overview:

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Full Dress (Tails):

 

Waist length in front

 

Two long tails in back

 

Most formal when worn with a wing collar shirt, white vest, and bowtie

Single Breasted:

 

A jacket that buttons in the front at the waist

 

Can have one, two, or more buttons in a straight row

Double Breasted:

 

An overlapping jacket with two to six buttons

 

Very formal-looking when worn closed, looks very messy when unbuttoned

Cutaway:

 

A three-quarter length jacket that tapers from the front to a tail in back

 

Formal daytime apparel

 

Traditionally worn with a vest and an ascot

Stroller:

 

A suit-length jacket with no satin accents

 

More like a suit

 

Worn with a four hand/Windsor tie

 

Daytime formal

 

Best for garden weddings or simple ceremonies

Dinner Jacket:

 

White or ivory suit-length jacket

 

Traditionally worn on cruises

 

White and ivory tuxedos tend to be made of polyester, so they can end up being a warmer jacket that doesn't breathe well

Shirt styles also affect the look of your tuxedo.

These are a few styles that are popular:

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Wingtip Collar:

 

A stand-up collar with two turned-down points in front

 

Usually has a pleated bib

 

Very formal

 

Normally worn with a bowtie

Laydown Collar:

 

A dress shirt collar with long points

 

Some have pleated bibs, others have plain fronts

 

Usually worn with a four hand tie

 

Less formal, more suit-like

Banded Collar:

 

A very high stand-up collar

 

Two inches all the way around

 

Worn with a button cover only

 

Potentially irritating to the neck due to height

 

Contemporary looking

Accessories help complete the look of your tuxedo.

Whether you choose a vest or cummerbund,

it helps to know how they will affect the look you are trying to achieve.

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Vests -- Backless (vest front):

 

A halter type of vest that gives the look of a regular vest

 

Adjustable to accommodate different body shapes

 

Allows tall or husky people to fit into the same vest styles as more average-sized people

Full Back Vests: (no, not vests for American football players...)

 

A regular vest that buttons up the front

 

A very finished look

 

Most full vests are not made in larger or children's sizes

 

The arm holes are generously cut, due to that characteristic, this type of vest tends to bag in the chest area

 

Full vests are not very adjustable

 

Should you have a very athletic person, this type of vest may fit them in the chest, however, the waist may be very large and have the look of table skirting

 

There is also no adjustment for upper body height

Cummerbund:

 

A belt-like band that is worn around the waist

 

Its main function is to camouflage the adjustable clips on the sides of the trousers

Bowtie:

 

The most formal look regarding a tuxedo

 

Most bowties come pre-tied and on an adjustable band

 

Self-tie bowties are another option, however, they can be a bit tricky to tie

Ascot:

 

A wide necktie that is looped over and secured with a tietack or pin

 

Most formal when worn with a cutaway jacket and vest

Studs and Cufflinks:

 

Jewelry that replaces some of the buttons on the shirt

 

Adds a more sophisticated and complete look to your tuxedo ensemble

Button Cover:

 

A hinged cover made to slide over the top button of a shirt

 

Usually used instead of a bowtie

Four Hand/Windsor Tie:

 

A standard long, knotted necktie

 

Ideal for a farm wedding or civil ceremony

 

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  Last modified: 08/27/2008